Climbing Injuries: How to Self-Manage and Prevent Them

Climbing is an exhilarating sport that tests both physical and mental endurance. However, the repetitive movements and high demands on the body can lead to injuries, particularly in the shoulders, fingers, elbows, and wrists. Here’s a quick guide to understanding common climbing injuries, self-management tips, and prevention strategies.

Common Climbing Injuries

1. Finger Pulley Strains

Over-gripping and dynamic moves can strain the flexor pulleys in the fingers.

2. Shoulder Impingement

Reaching for holds at awkward angles can irritate the rotator cuff or lead to impingement.

3. Tendinopathy (Elbow and Wrist)

Repetitive pulling motions can cause inflammation in the tendons.

4. Skin Tears and Abrasions

The high-friction nature of climbing often leads to superficial injuries.

Self-Management Tips

1. Rest and Modify Activity

• Avoid climbing or reduce intensity to allow healing.

• Focus on low-impact exercises or climbing styles that avoid the injured area.

2. Ice and Elevate

• Apply ice packs for 10–15 minutes to reduce swelling, particularly for finger or elbow injuries.

3. Stretch and Mobilise

• Gentle stretching of the fingers, shoulders, and forearms helps maintain flexibility and reduces stiffness.

4. Strengthening Exercises

• Gradually reintroduce targeted exercises to build resilience, such as fingerboard hangs for pulleys or external rotation exercises for the shoulders.

5. Tape Support

• Use climbing-specific tape to offload stress on injured tendons or pulleys.

Injury Prevention for Climbers

1. Warm-Up Thoroughly

• Spend 10 minutes warming up with light cardio, mobility drills, and climbing-specific movements.

2. Strengthen Key Areas

• Focus on antagonist muscles (e.g., push-ups for chest and triceps) to balance the pulling nature of climbing.

• Incorporate fingerboard training to strengthen tendons over time.

3. Improve Technique

• Work on smooth, efficient movements to minimise strain on fingers and joints.

4. Take Rest Days

• Overtraining increases the risk of injuries. Allow at least 1–2 rest days per week to recover.

5. Listen to Your Body

• Avoid pushing through pain or fatigue, as this can lead to chronic injuries.

When to Seek Help

If pain persists despite rest/specific exercises, worsens with activity, or affects daily life, consult a practitioner. Early intervention can prevent minor injuries from becoming chronic issues. 

Beneficial Home Exercises

Here are some effective exercises to include for injury prevention and rehabilitation for climbers:

1. Shoulder Stability and Strength

External Rotations with Dumbbells or Resistance Bands

• How: Attach a resistance band to a sturdy anchor or use a light dumbbell. Keep your elbow at a 90-degree angle and rotate your arm outward.

• Why: Strengthens the rotator cuff to prevent shoulder impingement.

• Sets/Reps: 2 sets of 12–15 reps per arm.

Scapular Pull-Ups

• How: Hang from a pull-up bar with straight arms. Engage your shoulder blades by pulling them down and together without bending your elbows.

• Why: Improves scapular stability and reduces stress on the shoulders.

• Sets/Reps: 2 sets of 8–10 reps.

2. Elbow and Forearm Strength

Reverse Wrist Curls

• How: Hold a light dumbbell or resistance band with palms facing down. Slowly curl your wrists upward, then lower.

• Why: Strengthens wrist extensors and prevents elbow tendinitis.

• Sets/Reps: 2 sets of 12–15 reps per arm.

Finger Curls

• How: Hold a light dumbbell in your hand, letting it rest on your fingers. Roll the weight upward into your palm, then lower slowly.

• Why: Builds grip strength and finger tendon durability.

• Sets/Reps: 2 sets of 10 reps per hand.

3. Finger and Hand Resilience

Hangboard Training (for Advanced Climbers)

• How: Use a hangboard and hang with straight arms for 10–15 seconds. Gradually increase duration as you progress.

• Why: Strengthens finger pulleys and tendons.

• Sets/Reps: 2 sets of 10–15 seconds.

Theraputty or Grip Trainer Squeezes 

• How: Use putty or a grip trainer to perform squeezing motions.

• Why: Improves hand and finger endurance.

• Sets/Reps: 2 sets of 15 reps.

(I like to do this one when watching TV).

4. Core Stability and Mobility

Hollow Body Holds

• How: Lie on your back, lift your legs and shoulders slightly off the ground, and hold.

• Why: Builds core strength for climbing stability.

• Sets/Reps: 3 sets of 20–30 seconds.

Side Planks with Reach-Throughs

• How: Perform a side plank and rotate your upper arm under your body, then return to the starting position.

• Why: Engages obliques and improves rotational strength.

• Sets/Reps: 2 sets of 8 reps per side.

5. Mobility and Flexibility

Shoulder Dislocates with a Band

• How: Hold a resistance band or dowel with a wide grip. Move it over your head and back without bending your elbows.

• Why: Improves shoulder mobility and prevents stiffness.

• Sets/Reps: 2 sets of 10.

Wrist Flexor and Extensor Stretch

• How: Extend your arm with your palm up (or down) and use the other hand to gently pull your fingers back.

• Why: Stretches and releases tension in the forearms.

• Sets/Reps: Hold for 20–30 seconds per side, 3 times.

By incorporating these exercises into your weekly routine, you can build resilience, reduce injury risk, and enhance your climbing performance. Win win! I hope you enjoyed this latest edition to the blog series!